ART
AND ARTIST
THE PLASTIC
ARTS IN MODERN BALI
Sculpture and
Architecture: The primary function of the average sculptor is to
enhance the public buildings of his community with florid decoration
and judging from the profusion of such carved temple and palace
walls, gates, drum-towers, public baths,
court houses, and so forth, seen even in the remotest districts,
one comes to the conclusion that there must be an enormous number
of sculptors in Bali. Domestic architecture is simply of wood and,
thatch with secondary walls, undecorated for the most part, and
is the concern of carpenters and tbatcb-workers. Formerly the vassals
of the feudal princes built great palaces for them, many of which
are still among. the finest examples of Balinese architecture, but
today the artistic activity of the people goes into the care of
their places, of worshiZ and other communal buildings, still erected
and repaired with great intensity.
In Bali there
is no special class of architects, and the sculptors are in charge
of designing, directing, and even working themselves in the construction
of a temple, assisted by a number of stone- and brick-workers. A
master carver should be able to plan beautiful gates, which are
the most important examples of Balinese architecture. In Mas, a
village of Brahmanas, we saw once an architectural drawing, rather
resembling our architectural proiects- for a temple gate to be erected
in the village. The drawing was made by Ida Bagus Ktut, carver,
actor, and musician, member of a who'le family of artists; the position
and shape of the stones and the carvings on what was to be in sandstone
were drawn in great detail on European paper with black ink, with
the parts to be made of brick painted red. I believe, however, that
this drawing was exceptional, and usually the work is started without
a drawn plan. For the making of the great towers for cremation,
for example., the master builder simply has the design and the proportions
already worked out., 'as the Balinese say, in his belly.
The only stone
to be found in the island is a soft sandstone, a conglomerate of
volcanic ash called paras, quarried on the banks of rivers. The
stone appears to be softer when freshly taken from the ground and
becomes harder with time under favourable conditions. Dr. Stutterbeim
claims that the stone was protected in Qld times by a coating of
cement, but I bad no occasion to verify this and I never found evidence
of such cement being used by the present-day Balinese. It is perhaps
the softness ' of this, the only stone in Bali, that is responsible
for the over-intricate art of the Balinese, making it possible for
them to give full vent to their nafve delight in covering all available
space with decoration.
The stone is
cut and shaped with adzes, directly on the spot where it is quarried,
and made.into blocks of various sizes according to requirements.
For the large statues of demons that guard the entrance of temples,
the great block of paras is roughly shaped to resemble its ultimate
form, and when it is considered that enough surplus stone has been
removed, it is carried to its destination on stretchers of bamboo
- not an easy task, since the quarries are generally at the bottom
of deep ravines. I have seen as many as fifteen men struggling up
a narrow and slippery path with a great block of stone. The schematic
mass of the future devil is placed where it is to remain a, d is
finished on the site.
The blocks
of stone for construction are put together without mortar, but it
is essential for the stability of the building that the joints should
have a perfect fit. This is accomplished by rubbing the two stones
together, wearing their surfaces down
with great quantities of water. The same process is employed"to
join baked brick. In this manner the building rises slowly, the
workmen protected from the sun by shades made of the woven leaves
of the coconut palm and a considerable period of time often elapses
before a new temple is finished. The alternate masses of red brick
and sandstone are carved last, often leaving the roughly shaped
masses of stone for years without decoration.
The stone-carvers
follow definite rules when they begin to cover a temple or a palace
gate with decoration. For instance, there should be a karang tiewiri
over the gate, the face of a leering monster with a hanging tongue
and long canines. On less important spots the central motif of a
pattern is a karang bintulu, a curiously popular design consisting
of a single bulging eye over a row of upper teeth, the canines of
which are developed into fangs, surmounted by the representation
of a mountain. To finish a corner there is a special motif, a karang
titiring, the upper part of a bird's beak, also provided, with a
single eye and pointed teeth. For the same purpose there is a variation
of this same motif, a karang asti, the jawless head of an elephant.
The word karang means a reef, a rock, but it also is the word for
setting jewels or for a flower arrangement. It has been attempted
to give these ornaments an esoteric religious meaning (according
to Nieuwenkamp), the representation of the souls of inanimate objects
- rocks, mountains, plants - of which they form a part; when a Balinese
was pressed to explain why they did not have lower jaws, he replied
that it was because they did not have to eat solid food This is,
in my opinion , a typical Balinese wise crack and not an indication
of any such symbolical meaning.
These motifs
are the starting-point for the intricate volutes, leaves, flowers,
flaming motifs, and so forth, strongly reminiscent of those used
in ancient Java, but also found in Siam, Cambodia, and even in the
objects of the Dyaks of Borneo, a people uninfluenced by Hinduistic
art. All-over patterns are called karang, while the carved borders
in the mouldings are named patra, of which there is a patra olanda
(from the Portuguese word for Holland?) and a patra tiin2, a "
Chinese border." Here and there small panels are carved with
representations of episodes from their literature: animals from
the t2ntri stories, the Balinese,AESOP's fables; suggestive scenes
from the Ardiuna Wiwaha in which the nymphs of heaven make passionate
love to Ardjuna while he is in deep meditation; or a battle from
the Ramayana or Mahabharata, with comic scenes in which the retainers
of the heroes, the clowns Twailen and D61am, wrestle and bite each
other.
The Southern
style of architecture (Badung, Gianyar, Tabanan, Bangli, Klungkung)
is characterized by masses of red brick relieved by intricately
carved ornaments in grey sandstone in a considerably more restrained
style than that of the North of the island (Buleleng) , where it
breaks out into a gaudy riot of gingerbread decoration in a stone
so soft that travellers have mistaken it for sun-dried mud. The
gates of a North Balinese temple are tall and slender, with a flaming,
ascendant tendency as if trying to liberate themselves from the
smothering maze of sculptured leaves and flowers, out of which peer,
here and there, grotesque faces and blazing demons, their shape
almost lost in the flames that emanate from their bodies.
The North Balinese
take their temples lightly and often use the wall spaces as a sort
of comic strip, covering them with openly humorous subjects: a motor-car
held up by a two-gun bandit, seen undoubtedly in some American Western
in the movie house of Buleleng; a mechanic trying to repair the
breakdown of a car full of long-bearded Arabs; two fat Hollanders
drinking beer; a soldier raping a girl; or a man on a bicycle with
two great flowers for wheels. Fantastic pornographic subjects are
always a source of hilarious comedy and in many temples in both
North and South Bali such subjects are found as temple decorations.
As if the mad tangle of stone vegetation were not enough, in North
Bali they outline the decorations with white paint to make them
even more conspicuous, and in villages like Babetin, Ringdikit,
and Diagaraga the overpowering decoration is painted in bright blue,
red, and yellow, giving as a result the wildest and most unrestrained
effects.
The art of wood-carving
has suffered a curious transformation since our first visit to Bali
in 193o. Then the majority of the objects carved in wood were made
for utilitarian purposes: from carved doors and beams for houses,
musical instruments, masks for dramatic shows, handles for implements,
to little statues of deities and other ritual accessories. These
were of the conventional contemporary Balinese style: flowers and
curlicues in high relief for flat surfaces (ukiran) , and for sculpture
in the round (togog), statues of divinities, demons, and other characters
of mythology dressed in classical attire and profusely ornamented.
Furthermore, all wood-carvings were meant to be covered with paint,
lacquer, or goldleaf and only in exceptional cases was the wood
left in its raw state. There were unusual pieces, but they were
freaks among the predominant styles.
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Travellers had
started to buy Balinese carvings, however, and on our return to
Bali three years later, the Balinese sculptors were turning out
mass-production " objets d'art " for tourists. Even before
arriving in Bali for the second time, we found the curioshops of
Macassar and Java filled with statuettes of a decidedly commercial
style which was totally new to us. Before this we had made acquaintance
with Gusti Ngurah Gede', an old man of Pemetjutan rated among the
best sculptors of South Bali. Although Gusti Ged6 was so old that
he talked with difficulty, be could carve the most delicate motifs
in hard wood with a precision and sureness envied by the younger.
sculptors. He had started to make realistic little statues of nude
girls, bathing, combing their hair, or in the process of undressing,
masterfully carved out of a fine-grained white wood, figures that
found ready sale among travellers. This was perhaps the beginning
of a new art in which the sculptor began working for a new public:
tourists who had little appreciation of the technical perfection
demanded by the Balinese, or foreign a ritists who preferred line
and form to intricate ornamentation.
This necessarily
introduced the mercenary element into Balinese art, until then non-existent;
prices were boosted and the sculptor suddenly became aware thaf'there
was a good income in making statues. On the other hand, this same
condition gave
the art a
new impulse, and sculptors sprang up like mushrooms. Soon every
important artistic centre,. such as Den Pasar, Mas, Batuan, Pliatan,
and Ubud, was turning out quantities of carv ings in new styles,
mediocre heads of dianger.dancers snatched up by round-the-world
tourists, stereotyped slim figures from Mas exported to Java and
Holland; while, the splendid sculptors from Badung and Batuan carved
coconut shells from Bangli and so forth.
Custi Gede' was
also the master of a school of sculptors and every morning boys
from the town went to his house to receive lessons and to assist
him. Some of.his pupils were already fine carvers and could turn
out statues almost as finished as those of the master. In'his school
we had the opportunity to observe the technique of wood-ta'rving,
which is considerably more refined and requires greater skill than
the carvings in pargs stone. Hard woods such , as teak (diati) ,
jackfruit (nangka) , and the compact sawo, a beautiful dark red
wood, are invariably used and the sculptor must have a sure hand,
trained by the experience of years,'and , a, good knowledge of the
art of cutting into the grain of the wood. He uses every conceivable
form of knives, chisels, and gouges: round, straight, slanting,
V-shaped, and so forth, some of which are intended for exceptionally
deep carving. A complete set of tools consists of some thirty instruments
and a wooden mallet. The carving technique consists in chipping
bits of wood gradually with the highly sharpened instruments, not
by band pressure, as among us, but with light taps of the mallet,
obtaining -in this manner delicacy of touch and greater control
over the material. If the statue is not to be painted or gilded,
it is made smooth with pumice and given a high polish by rubbing
it with bamboo.
Painting: Unlike
the arts of the theatre, music, and sculpture, painting was little
in evidence as a living art on our first visit to Bali. Outside
of painting artifacts of daily use and scant decorations for temples,
the Balinese made only paintings of two sorts: ide rider, strips
of hand-made cotton a foot made by some fifteen or twenty feet long,
hung at festivals under the roofs, all around the pavilions in houses
and temples; and langs6, wide pieces of painted cloth used as hangings
or curtains. There were often calendars (pelelintangan) used to
establish the horoscopes of children, divided into squares with
symbolical designs, one for each of the thirty-five days of, the
month. Often the paintings represented scenes of mythology, episodes
and battles from the literary epics; but there were seldon't scenes
from daily life and never of contemporary subjects. The characters
shown were invariably gods, devils, 'princes, and 'princesses with
their retain-ersi dressed in the ancient costumes of Hindu-Javanese
times.
Their attitudes
were stilted and the subjects standardized, but at times the restricted
artist found an episode where he could give vent to his drotic sense
of humour and he took good advantage of a. love scene or a mishap
to one of the retainers of the heroes. Erotic paintings were met
With at times, scenes of fantastic attitudes in love-making, which
they assured me would prevent the house where they were kept from
burning!
Only the old
paintings showed skill and taste; the modem ones sold at the, lobby
of the Bali Hotel were coarse, hastily made, and with a sad poverty
of subject-matter. Painting was at a standstill, no longer in demand
from, the Balinese themselves and suffering from lack of freedom
of expression. Only rarely did we find pictures with style, but,
the reason for this was the systematic and mechanical manner in
which they were made; a master painter drew the main outline's and
gave the final touches, leaving his children and apprentices to
fill in the colours. Once in Gelgel, centre of painters of "the
conventional style, the two children of a painter had a heated argument
because one had painted with blue the flesh parts of a figure and
insisted he was right.
The following
are among the invariable rules to be followed by painters of the
conservative style: all available space must -be covered by the
design, even to the blank spaces between the |