JIMBARAN & BUKIT BADUNG 3
Surf-Wracked Shores of Southern Bali

A glimpse of the past

The Bukit bears witness to a long history. There are limestone caves all over the area and evidence of prehistoric human occupation have been found in Gua Selonding. Before Uluwatu became a Hindu temple, it was the site of worship for more ancient cults The foundation of the temple itself is dated Balinese tradition to the 11th century.

The poverty of the soil and its geographical isolation have shaped the social landscape of Bukit Badung. There was never any wet rice farming and other crops and cattle-breeding did not suffice to feed the population. So those who could not subsist through farming cattle-raising and crafts, looked to the sea for salt, lime and fish. Others migrated to rice growing areas. Old men of Sukawati still talk of Bukit peddlars exchanging betel lime and salt for gleaning and accommodation right Bukit Badung is also known as a region where the overlords of Mengwi and Badung banished malcontents and defaulting debtors Nowadays the population is growing, the region having become a major focal point of Bali's relentless tourism boom.

Jimbaran

Jimbaran as an administrative entity forms a part of Kuta, and encompasses the area just south of Bali's international airport. Most of Jimbaran's 12,000 inhabitants live in a cluster of traditional banjar neighborhoods at the narrowest part of the isthmus, but the Jimbaran area also includes the sparsely populated northwestern corner of the Bukit plateau.

Since the Nusa Dua highway leads visitors through the region along the eastern mudflats and mangrove swamps, the area went almost unnoticed by tourists until a few years ago. There were no hotels or even home stays, no tourist restaurants, no art shops, few artists, and hardly anyone who could speak English. All that is changing rapidly, perhaps more rapidly than some of the local residents would like. Jimbaran's fine beach has now led to the construction of a number of luxury hotels along its edge, and in a few years the area seems destined to become another major resort rivaling Sanur, Kuta and Nusa Dua.

Jimbaran village is unique in that it borders two separate coasts lying less than 2 km apart, each of which has a markedly different geography. To the west is the broad expanse of Jimbaran Bay and the Indian Ocean. To the east is a tidal mudflat enclosing the shallow and sheltered Benoa Harbor. The ecosystems of the two strands, and the occupations of villagers who five on them, differ dramatically.

Salt making and lime production are the principal livelihoods on the eastern side while fishing is the main industry of the west The salt is made by sloshing seawater onto the flats, to be dried by the sun. Villagers then rake up the salty dirt and evaporate the solution over wood fires in shallow metal pans. The abundance of coral fragments provide the raw materials for the lime industry. (NOTE: You will have to ask directions if you want to see salt and lime workings, these areas are only accessible via a rabbit's warren of unpaved tracks.)

Jimbaran's lovely western beach is protected from larger waves by a fragmented reef behind which lies shallow water, an ideal anchorage for large fishing boats. However idyllic it may appear during the dry season, the beach is often rather unpleasant from about November through March when high waves assault the shore, and the sand becomes littered with flotsam of every description.

Fishing is the principal activity all along the bay, not only in Jimbaran itself, but also in the villages of Kedonganan and Kelan to the north. Kedonganan's catch always surpasses that of Jimbaran. The Kedonganan fishermen who are mostly Javanese use large, motorized prahu made in Madura to catch enormous quantities of sardines with huge purse seines. They depart in the late afternoon and return just after dawn to sell their catch to wholesalers waiting by the shore with trucks full of ice.

An early morning visit to witness the arrival of the fishing fleet at Kedonganan is a heady experience. Head north from Jimbaran towards the airport and take the first paved road to your left (west) just beyond Jimbaran village's northern boundary. Bear in mind, however, that fishing comes almost to a halt during the rainy season.

In contrast to those in Kedonganan, almost all fishermen in Jimbaran are local Balinese who use jukung (small outrigger boats) and fish with gill nets or large round cast nets. 'Me gill nets are set out in the bay in the late afternoon, and the catch is collected early the next morning. During the fishing season there is lots of interesting activity just after sunrise, well worth waking early for. To get to the hub of the activity, follow the unpaved road that leads to the beach from Jimbaran's main crossroads, past Pura Ulun Siwi.

Jimbaran's market is located on the northeast corner of the main crossroads in the village, just across the street from Pura Ulun Siwi. It is the principal trading center for most of the Bukit, as well as for the villages that lie to the north, between Jimbaran and Kuta. There are no crafts sold specifically for tourists, but there is a considerable variety of local products, including baskets and mats produced by the weavers of villages such as Ungasan and Pecatu. There is no special market day. Activity is greatest early in the morning and almost ceases by noon. more.. 1 2 3 4 5

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