PENIDA
AND LEMBONGAN
Bali's
'Sister Islands' Another World
Nusa
Penida, Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan are Bali's three
"sister islands" situated in the deep, whirling
straits separating Bali from Lombok. Nusa Ceningan, the
smallest of the three, is little more than a tiny rock
with a single village that snuggles cozily between the
massive highlands of Penida to the east, and the coral
beaches of Lembongan to the west. The three islands differ
radically from the rest of Bali, consisting of barren
limestone highlands covered by cacti and shrubs. Physically,
they have much more in common with the southern Bukit
Peninsula and the islands to the east of Bali.
An
austere physical environment
Water
is scarce, so the only crops grown here are maize, cassava,
beans and tobacco. It is common in the small villages
to see cacah strips of raw cassava drying in the sun before
being steamed as a substitute staple for rice.
The
islands are very sparsely populated. Nusa Penida (usually
called Nusa) has 25 villages scattered along its shores
and in the highlands. Access is difficult, as transport
is not well-developed and roads in the highlands, winding
and uneven, are just beginning to be paved. Everything
comes by boat from Bali, including cattle, motorcycles
and even bulldozers (which are knocked down, transported
and re-assembled).
Houses,
built with limestone blocks on the Balinese pattern in
the lowlands, are more like Lombok's one-room huts on
the plateau. They always include a family shrine (sanggah),
as most inhabitants are Hindu Balinese. However, in the
main town of Toya Pakeh, many people call themselves "Muslim
Balinese" by which they mean a mixture of Malay,
Sasak, Bugis, and Javanese migrants - settled here for
generations. They have their own mosque, and Sasak cloth
traders from nearby Lombok live semi permanently in this
desa Islam.
Most
highland farmers work in terraced dry fields and breed
cattle. Cows are brought to market aboard jukung to be
slaughtered in Denpasar. On the coast, people live by
fishing, transporting passengers and goods to and from
Bali, and, more recently, by culvating seaweed. The seaweed
the large green kotoni and the smaller, red pinusun is
exported to Hong Kong for use in the cosmetics industry.
On shore, one finds co and cashew plantations.
Women
help their husbands in the fields They used to spin cotton
and weave cepuk (rough checkered cloths used- for life
cycle ceremonies) on back strap looms, but this has almost
disappeared over the last 15 years,
Daily
life is hard. Rainwater is collected huge tanks for supply
during the dry season and on the southern cliffs of Penida,
a spectacular bamboo stairway has been constructed together
water from natural springs just above the sea. Electricity
is not yet available in the highlands, and education,
job entertainment opportunities are scarce.
The
cursed islands
All
kinds of appalling myths have always been attached to
Nusa Penida, due to its gloomy atmosphere and unrewarding
conditions. Black magic is said to flourish here, and
Balinese from the mainland are careful about what they
say to Nusa people so as not to offend them. All evil
Bali especially floods and diseases during the dry season
- is said to come from Nusa, brought by the giant demon
king, Jero Gede Mecaling. In the Badung and Gianyar regencies,
the giant and his troops, who are said to cross the straits
and land at Lebih, are met and expelled by means of exorcist
sanghyang dedari trance dances.
Formerly,
the islands were part of the Klungkung kingdom, which
used Nusa as a place of banishment. There fore, most inhabitants
are commoners and only a few bear the noble titles Dewa
or Sri.
Visiting
the islands
Nusa
Penida is the ideal place to get off the beaten track,
and to seek quietude and authenticity. The inhabitants
here speak Balinese, with a local accent and vocabulary
influenced by Sasak, but for them Bali is another world
to which they go only from time to time. The form of ceremonies,
such as weddings and cremations is similar to those in
Bali, but in other ways these islands remind one of Lombok
or Sumbawa.
In
Nusa Penida, there is almost no tourism yet. It is wonderful
to walk, ride on ojek two wheeled taxis, or drive through
the villages in the highlands and along the shore to experience
the island's rough beauty. It is also a rare experience
to spend the night in a local home, as people are very
friendly.
Several
sights are worth visiting, such as karang Sari Cave, the
spring at Sakti and sebuluh Waterfall near Batu Madeg.
The most interesting temple is Ratu Gede kecaling's Pura
Peed, 3 kin east of Toya Pakeh. In the smaller sanctuary
here, a strange tree composed of three entangled ones
grows, and from the trunk a stone mouth of Mecaling's
minister protrudes. The temple odalan falls on Buda Cemeng
Kelawu. Every three years on the fourth full moon (Purnama
Kapat), a great festival (usaba) is also held, during
which pilgrims from all over Bali come to pray at Pura
Peed.
The
Gandrung Dance, performed by two young boys clad in women's
attire is still practiced in Plilit (Sekartaji) and Cemulik
(Sakti) on Kajeng Kliwon, Purnama and Tilem according
to the Balinese calendar. It is inspired by a dance of
the same name in West Lombok. Baris Pati is performed
in cemeteries at the time of cremations, in simpler costumes
than on Bali. Baris Gede is danced at the odalan at Batu
Ngulapan (Batu Nungul). Sanghyang Jaran exorcistic dances
are held in times of crisis in Kutampi and Sakti.
Nusa
Umbongan is a small island covered with coconut trees,
mangrove forests, small farms, and is surrounded by coral
reefs. The island is split between two villages, Jungut
Batu and Lembongan. About 75 percent of its population
is involved with seaweed farming. The relaxed atmosphere
on the island is synchronized with the cycles of the tides.
Villagers are seen planting, replanting, and drying the
seaweed. Much of this activity takes place on the beach
so it is difficult to find an isolated beach for sunbathing.
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