THE
TEMPLE
A Sacred Space for God and Man
Above
all, the Balinese temple is a sacred space in which
the deities are honored with rituals and offerings.
Whether a simple enclosure with only one or two
tiny shrines, or an elaborate complex with scores
of sacred structures, the basic function of each
temple is the same - to serve as a site where the
Balinese pay reverence to the spiritual powers that
play such a large role in their lives.
Temple
types
There
are literally tens of thousands of temples in Bali,
and new ones are being constructed all the time.
Throughout much of the year they lie eerily deserted,
but on the date of their anniversary festival they
come to life in a brief but glorious burst of activity,
as the congregation adorns the temple with beautiful
ornaments and arrives bearing elaborate gifts, dressed
in their finest apparel.
We
just have one word for temple, but the Balinese
distinguish two important types. A sanggah (merajan
in the refined language) refers to private or family
temples, generally translated as "house temples."
Each family compound has one, containing shrines
to the family's deified ancestors (sanggah kamulan).
Thus there are several hundred thousand house temples
in Bali.
The
other word for temple in Balinese is Pura, originally
a Sanskrit term referring to town or palace. In
Bali, the word Pura ha come to refer to a temple
in the public d main, generally located on public
land. These cannot always be neatly classified,
but there are generally three types associated with
the three most important foci of social organization
on Bali - locale, irrigation cooperative (subak)
and descent group.
Within
the group based on locality are temples of the local
village, as well as temple of greater regional and
island-wide significance. Irrigation cooperative
temples ca belong to a single subak or to a whole
group of subaks. And within the group of temple
based on descent are temples supported "clans"
of greater or lesser degrees of ancestral depth,
variously known as Pura dadi Pura kawitan and Pura
padharman. Altogether there are at least 10,000
temples on B belonging to these various types.
Three
village temples of special significance are the
kahyangan tiga ("three sanctuaries") the
Pura Puseh ("temple of origin"), at the
upper end of the village, the Pura desa ("village
temple") or Pura bale agung ("great meeting
hall temple") in the village center, and the
Pura dalem (death temple or "temple of the
mighty one") lying near the cemeter and cremation
grounds at the lower or seaward end of the village.
These temples are linked with the gods of the Hindu
Trinity: the Pura Puseh with Brahma the Creator,
the Pura desa with Vishnu the Preserver, and the
Pura dalem with Siwa the Destroyer.
The
famous temple sites that tourists visit are regional
or island-wide temples. These include the "Mother
Temple" of Besakih, high up on the slopes of
Mt. Agung, as well as the major temples of Ulun
Danu (Batur), Lempuyang, Gua Lawah, Ulu Watu, Batukau,
Pusering Jagat (Pejeng), Andakasa and Pucak Mangu.
These are nearly all mountain or sea temples, marking
the primary poles of the sacred landscape in Bali.
Lesser
regional temples, numbering in the hundreds, are
sometimes called Pura dang kahyangan or "temples
of the Sacred Ones" because they are associated
with legendary Priests who brought Hinduism to Bali
from Java. Their supporting congregations are drawn
from a wide area, and in the past such temples were
often supported by local Princely houses. Nowadays
regional governments have taken on the same role.
Important regional temples include Pura Sakenan,
Pura Tanah Lot, Pura Kehen, Pura Taman Ayun and
many others.
Shrines
and pavilions
A
temple may contain just one or two shrines within
a small courtyard, or it may contain dozens of shrines
and other structures within two, or often three
courtyards.
The
innermost courtyard is the most sacred. Shrines
are usually located here in two rows - one lining
the mountain (kaja) side and the other lining the
eastern (kangin) side. Toward the center of the
courtyard is a large structure where the gods gather
during rituals. Open pavilions for various purposes
complete the arrangement.
Among
the shrines lining the mountain ward side one often
finds a pair of small closed shrines (gedong) -
one with an earthenware dish on its roof, the other
with a pointed roof. These honor protective deities
of the greatest importance: Dewi Sri, goddess of
rice and prosperity, and her consort Rambut Sedana,
god of wealth. A small shrine with a deer's head
is called menjangan saluwang and honors the legendary
priest Mpu Kuturan, or a deity called Bhatara Maospahit.
A
particularly striking structure is the meru or Balinese
pagoda, which has an odd number of roofs, up to
a maximum of eleven. A meru honors a god or a deified
ancestor, depending on what kind of temple it is.
It was probably introduced from Java during the
14th century.
In
the mountain ward-eastward corner, between the rows
of shrines, there is often an open seat-type shrine.
In its fully developed form, adorned with cosmic
turtle and serpents, this is called a padmasana
("lotus throne") and honors the high god
Sanghyang Widhi in his manifestation as Siwa Raditya,
the sun god. Modern Balinese Hinduism stresses its
monotheistic aspect, and the padmasana has recently
become more prominent.
Temple
festivals are held according to one of two calendrical
systems. When it appears on the 210-day wuku calendar,
a festival is called an odalan; when it follows
the lunar calendar, it is often referred to as an
usaba. Various factors, such as local tradition
and the size of the ritual, determine whether a
festival is officiated by the temple's own priest
(Pemangku) or by a brahmana high priest (Pedanda).