THE
COMMUNITY
ETIQUETTE
Despite strict caste regulations,
the code of etiquette is simple and reasonable; a general air
of frankness and friendliness prevails in daily intercourse, and
it is only in the resence of an arrogant prince that the common
man has to humiliate himself; even more polite treatment is given
to a high priest. From the beginning a stranger is struck by the
extreme politeness and gentle manners, even in the lower classes.
The strongest criticism that can be made of a person is that he
has no manners. Such a freak should be avoided.
One is greeted on the road
with the words: Lungga kidia, Where to? " and a visitor is
welcomed with: " Wau rauh, Just arrived." These are
formulas not to be taken in their literal sense. A visitor takes
leave by asking to be excused: " Tiang pamit," the answer
to which is simply " Yes," "ingih" There are
no other words for greeting or for good-bye. It is not polite
to answer a question with monosyllables, and one should not point
with. The index finger. It is better to use the words for the
cardinal to indicate direction, but if one must point, it should
be with the thumb, holding the rest of the band closed.
The Balinese are constantly
paying visits to one another, but no one would dream of making
a formal visit without bringing along a gift of some sort: fruit,
rice, eggs, or chickens, given casually and received without a
word of thanks. It is taken for. granted that the present is appreciated
by the acceptance but if one wants to be over-polite, one says:
" Tiang nunas", "want it " or " I like
it " (ideh in the common language) object is banded with
the right band while touching the elbow with the left, and it
is received with the same gesture.
The gift-problem became
acute for us as we entered in competition with our friends and
neighbors for more and valuable presents. Someone would arrive
with a basket of egg or rice; we repaid the visit taking a cheap
bead-cloth. On the next visit they came with piles of fruit and
even live chicken we had to rush to the market to buy a batik
shirt or a bottles of Javanese perfume. We generally ended by
exchanging brocades krisses, and so forth for pieces of silk,
flashlights, and fountain pens. The Balinese are very much concerned
with the price paid for an object, and they always insisted on
knowing what we paid . for a present, until we realized that it
was a great mistake, to remove move the price tags. When we bought
new glasses or new Plates, Dog, our house-boy, washed them carefully
around the la as not to rub off the price.
It is necessary to be properly
dressed to pay or to receive a, visit The breasts of men and women
should be covered by a special breast-cloth, a saput for men and
a selendang for women. People in the house always dashed for their
breast-cloth, usually an ordinary foreign towel, when a special
guest arrived. Immediately the visitor was provided with green
coconuts to quench his thirst, with cigarettes and betel-nut.
Up-to-date Balinese like to , offer soda-pop, coffee and Chinese
pastries. The chewing bete]-nut is the first gesture of hospitality
and the main social pastime of the entire archipelago. To chew
betel, a piece of the green nut of the betel palm is dabbed with
a little lime, wrapped in pepper leaves, sirih, and the whole
chewed together with a large wad of shredded tobacco that is held
under a monstrously protruding lower lip.
The combination of betel,
sirih, and lime produces an abundant flow of saliva, red as blood,
and the betel addict spits constantly, leaving crimson splotches
wherever he goes. After certain guests departed, our house-boy
always -had to wash the veranda steps because they looked as if
a murder bad been committed on them. Today betel-chewing is not
favoured by the younger generation, not only because it looks
so disagreeable, but because it spoils the teeth. The older the
person, the fonder he is of betel, and the ingredients are always
kept on hand in boxes with little compartments or in special satchels
of woven pandanus. Old men without teeth have a special bamboo
tube with an iron rod to mash the various ingredients together.
The sirih, betel, and lime are presented to guests in little ready-made
packages often beautifully decorated with streamers of delicately
cut-out palm-leaf. They are called tian2ng or bas6h, a gift.
A host must act as servant
to his guests, himself attending to their comfort and not partaking
of the refreshments. Meals are also served by the host, even if
he has servants and assistants, and he can eat only after the
guests have finished. If the visitors come from another village,
they are expected to stay for the night and even for days at a
time. The place of honour in the house is then assigned to them.
After a reasonable period of time the visit is repaid and the
presents reciprocated.
Very strict are the rules
between men and women. On public occasions men and women keep
to themselves in separate groups, and people from Gianyar are
shocked to see the sexes mingle in Badung while watching a show.
In the same manner the people of Badung are disgusted because
in Tabanan men and women bathe near together. It is rude to look
into a public bath and even worse to enter it unless to bathe.
Then the other bathers become figuratively invisible. Great courtesy
is shown even among people are intimate and it is extremely unusual
for a man to get "fresh " with a girl in public; should
it happen, the man would be severely punished. Thus a woman can
confidently remain in her house while her male relatives are away
at work, and a girl can go anywhere without fear of being, aproached
by a stranger. Girls of high caste usually go chaperoned. Lovers
are particularly careful not to show their emotions in public.
To neglect releasing a loud
belch after a meal would be taken by the host as a sign that the
food was not satisfactory. In general the Balinese are very frank
in actions that would be out the question among us, such as clearing
the throat, spitting, I so forth. These are perfectly normal actions
no one needs, conceal.
But the key to Balinese
etiquette among the castes consists in the language spoken and
in keeping at the proper level. Under no circumstance should a
common man stand higher than aristocrat. If a lowly person has
to pass a nobleman who is sitting he stoops in front of him until
he is reasonably far away, and to address his superior he must
squat or sit on the ground clasping his hands together in front
of his chest or over his left shoulder. To retire, after begging
leave, he walks backwards, stooping holding his bands clasped.
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