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Take
bus to Pangandaran from Banjar, 42 km east of Tasik, but take
the train for the return trip; it's more comfortable and more
scenic. From Yogya it's 7 hours on the 'day-express' train to
Banjar, Rp1800. If you get stuck in Banjar, stay at Peng. Asli
right near the train station or at Peng. Galuh just after the
bridge. Usually as soon as you come out of the train station in
Banjar the Colt drivers will be on you; Colts cost Rp3-400 for
the 2 hour 63 km drive south to Pangandaran and the last Colt
leaves at around 8-9 pm. Taking the train all the way takes a
good bit longer. An alternative route to Pangandaran from Yogya
is to take the train to Kroya, bus or Colt to Cilicap, prahu to
Kalipucang, then a minibus Rp125 to Pangandaran.stay: From Pangandaran's
stanplatz, the row of hotels is 2 km away, Rp75-100 by becak.
No matter which hotel you stay in you can hear the waves breaking
on either side of the peninsula. The beach on the eastern side
is dangerous but the beach to the west is safe (more sheltered)
and clean. At least 30 losmens and bungalows.
Some
places want as high as Rp1500 for a room but talk them down. There
are several rumah makan with rooms for rent on their upper storeys.
Mini Accommodation is popular with travelers, Rp300 single, Rp500
double. Across the street, Rumah Makan Saderhana Bandung has small
but comfortable rooms up the ladder, Rp300; nasi goreng and other
meals for Rpl250. Peng. Putra Asli, Wisma Sawargi and Wisma Dinar
are all right on the beach, all Rp1000 per room. Peng. Setia Famili,
Rp300 single, Rp500 double; a pleasant place, you can order meals,
and get a cheaper rate if you stay ionger. Next door is Losmen
Itikurih, but more expensive. One km into the forest near the
beach is Pasangrahan Rengganis, but you must first go to Kantor
Seksi, JI. Oto Iskandardinata 427, Bandung, to get permission.
See the map on the porch of this pasangrahan before setting out
in the peninsula. eat: Best deal is to buy fresh fish Rp250 a
kg on the beach and have the restaurants or losmens cook it up
for you.
Warungs
down in the village past Yan's towards the reserve or your left
serve tasty nasi campurs for Rp75 with vegies or Rp125 with meat.
Another convivial warung is right on the western beach; serves
coffee and snacks, and is open until late at night. Delicious
mangosteens when in season, Rpl 5 each. Also try Rumah Makan Sumedang
with a good sate place next door.from Pangandaran: Big surf pounds
long stretches of deserted beaches to Batu Hiu. There are many
less accessible but quieter beaches with fewer people than Pangandaran:
Batu Hiu, Parigi, and Batu Karas beaches. For Batu Karas, get
a taxi from Pangandaran to Cijulang, Rp125, then walk down to
the beach. There are three coastal villages easy to reach from
Pangandaran. Just start walking west and you reach the first village
before it gets really hot. The headman will put you up. For Cilicap
go first to Kalipucang by bus Rp100, then do the very nice boat
trip to Cilicap. Train (more to look at than on the bus) leaves
Pangandaran for Banjar at 2 or 3 pm, costs Rp200, takes 5-6 hours.
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