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The
kraton: Classical Javanese palace-court architecture; the finest
in existence. Open daily until noon. Don't let them rush you through;
sometimes the guide tries to turn visitors in and out in 10 minutes
- for Rp150! Original buildings date from 1756, one year after
the founding of the sultanate. Looted by the English in 1812.
During the war of independence 1947-49 guerilla-commander Suharto,
the current president of Indonesia, used to dress asa barefoot
peasant and peddle vegetables at the rear of the kraton in order
to confer with the sultan on guerilla tactics to use against the
Dutch. The kraton is enclosed by 4 white walls 3 m thick, each
one km long, their construction imitating European fortifications.
The population of this small city within a city is about 25,000
including jesters and 200 gracious elderly court attendants. The
kraton has batik and silver workshops, mosques, schools, markets,
offices, and two museums. See ornate and heavily gilded Bangsal
Kencono (Golden Pavilion) with its carved solid teak pillars.
The Glass Pavilion combines Hindu motifs, Buddhist lotus flowers,
and stylized opening words of the Koran; marble floors, vortex
ceilings. The sultan's collection is made up of wayang puppets,
royal carriages, Raden Saleh portraits, a saddle made with gold
and silver thread, royal heirlooms exuding an odor of sanctity
(at the Proboyekso), huge 600 year old brass gongs, a gamelan
that was founded during the Majapahit Empire - and much more.
In the dances put on by this court, even the jangle of bells is
considered coarse; anklets are used only for monkey and animal
roles played by men. The Yogya dance style was created by Sultan
Hemeng Kubowono 1 (17551792) in time of war and reflects on almost
military discipline of mind and body.
Dancers
are awesomely distant and withdrawn with all the pauses, silences,
meditative poses and motions arrested in space. At Uyon Uyon Hadiluhung,
performances of traditional dances are held on Sat. 2-4 pm, Rp200
including a meal. Game/an rehearsals without .dancing take place
on Mon. and Wed. 10:30 pm - 12:30 am. On the 2nd Sat. of each
month an all night wayang ku/it (8 pm-5 am) takes place at the
Sasono Hinggil Hall in the Alun2 Kidul. To visit all parts of
this palace, first put in an application at the Kraton Office.
To take motion pictures you must get permission from the tourist
office. others: The Pakualaman, on JI. Sultan Agung is a princedom
founded within the sultanate of Yogya by Paku Alam I in 1813.
This court also receives visitors. Game/an concerts are held there
about once every 5 weeks.
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