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Indonesians now smoke up over 35,000 tons of cloves a year, even importing them from Zanzibar. Visit Kretek factories Djarum, Noryorono, Seokun, Jambu Bob, etc. Free tours. Chineseowned Djarum is the biggest, having made spectacular ground on Gudang Garam over the past several years. Djarum has 17 factory buildings producing kretek, each factory turning out one million handrolled cigarettes per day. Five hundred people work in the rolling shed; one roller gets Rp75 per 1000 cigarettes; some roll 5000 a day. In the packaging building there are 2000 women working like ants, all dressed so fine in dainty kebaya5 and' jewelry. Kauman: The Old Town. Ruins of Mesjid Bubar here; dates from the Hindu period. These back streets have the atmosphere of Zanzibar; narrow, winding, stark white.