++

The kraton: Classical Javanese palace-court architecture; the finest in existence. Open daily until noon. Don't let them rush you through; sometimes the guide tries to turn visitors in and out in 10 minutes - for Rp150! Original buildings date from 1756, one year after the founding of the sultanate. Looted by the English in 1812. During the war of independence 1947-49 guerilla-commander Suharto, the current president of Indonesia, used to dress asa barefoot peasant and peddle vegetables at the rear of the kraton in order to confer with the sultan on guerilla tactics to use against the Dutch. The kraton is enclosed by 4 white walls 3 m thick, each one km long, their construction imitating European fortifications.

The population of this small city within a city is about 25,000 including jesters and 200 gracious elderly court attendants. The kraton has batik and silver workshops, mosques, schools, markets, offices, and two museums. See ornate and heavily gilded Bangsal Kencono (Golden Pavilion) with its carved solid teak pillars. The Glass Pavilion combines Hindu motifs, Buddhist lotus flowers, and stylized opening words of the Koran; marble floors, vortex ceilings. The sultan's collection is made up of wayang puppets, royal carriages, Raden Saleh portraits, a saddle made with gold and silver thread, royal heirlooms exuding an odor of sanctity (at the Proboyekso), huge 600 year old brass gongs, a gamelan that was founded during the Majapahit Empire - and much more. In the dances put on by this court, even the jangle of bells is considered coarse; anklets are used only for monkey and animal roles played by men.

The Yogya dance style was created by Sultan Hemeng Kubowono 1 (17551792) in time of war and reflects on almost military discipline of mind and body. Dancers are awesomely distant and withdrawn with all the pauses, silences, meditative poses and motions arrested in space. At Uyon Uyon Hadiluhung, performances of traditional dances are held on Sat. 2-4 pm, Rp200 including a meal. Game/an rehearsals without .dancing take place on Mon. and Wed. 10:30 pm - 12:30 am. On the 2nd Sat. of each month an all night wayang ku/it (8 pm-5 am) takes place at the Sasono Hinggil Hall in the Alun2 Kidul. To visit all parts of this palace, first put in an application at the Kraton Office. To take motion pictures you must get permission from the tourist office. others: The Pakualaman, on JI. Sultan Agung is a princedom founded within the sultanate of Yogya by Paku Alam I in 1813. This court also receives visitors. Game/an concerts are held there about once every 5 weeks.