Vicinity of Dieng: Very mountainous walking in this region. The ground is often waterlogged and it's damn cold at night (as low as 4 degrees C.), so dress accordingly. Can hire horses, Rp6-800 per hour. Gua Semar: There's a whole ritual to go through to visit this holy cave. Bathe first at Bimolukar (gives you 'a pliable heart' and 'a swift mind'), then walk deep into the cave where incense burns and it's very dark and warm because of the sulphur.

The cave is said to be the exact physical center of Java. Suharto spends the night here when things are piling up. Trappist Monastery: This farm is 10 km beyond Dieng village. They make their own cheese. There's a guesthouse set aside for visitors, but women aren't allowed to enter the monastery itself. from Dieng: A unique exit from Dieng plateau is the 13 km walk north down to Bawang. Steps are cut into the path; you lose all that altitude in 4 hours. Pass through villages which have seldom seen foreigners. From Bawang take a regular bus to Pekalongan, Rp150.