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For stone sculpture visit Prumpung village, about 25 km from Magelang; statues, temple deities, gate reliefs, lawn decorations. Also noted for stonecarving is Muntilan. The leatherwork of Yogya is unreal; you seldom see leather as cheap as this. Fully embossed suitcases, Rp6-8000; roomy duffelbags, Rp8-9000; shoulder bags, Rp2500-3000. Make sure that the leather is thick and that you treat it after you buy it. Sometimes the embossing work is shithouse and cardboard backing is used. Watch carefully how buckles are fastened, they tend to break off first. In Indonesia you can still sit down with a craftsman and decide together on a design, what hide will be used, reinforced stitching if any, etc. - it's a creative process between the two of you. Try Pomo Wahono's Leather Factory, JI. Suhartono 7 (near Bethesda Hospital), Rp150 round trip from Colombo Restaurant by becak. Besides bags and purses, you can have a pair of high boots made to order here for around US$45 that would cost you US$150 in Italy.

On the sidewalks of Malioboro are leather lampshades with wayang characters stenciled out, very cheerful looking, glinting with color from the light behind it; starting price Rp2000. High quality ku/it puppets are made at Moelijosoehardjo's, JI. S. Parman 37/B. For the most part the wayang kulit puppets of Yogya are made from goats' skin, not buffalo hide. Wayang go/ek are made at Pak Warno's on Bantul Road, 8 km south of Yogya. At Pasar Beringharjo, off the southern end of Malioboro, one km of market stalls swarming with brazen rats and selling everything from macrame, mutton and mangoes. Leathergoods are for sale in front of the market at reasonable prices.