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You're free to wander around through big workrooms full of men and boys hammering on anvils, filing, polishing, heating and soldering on strips of bright silver, using the simplest of handtools. Buy embossed hand-heaten and chased bowls, exquisitely designed miniature butterflies and flowers, sirih containers, repousse work, some modern jewelry, filigree work, etc. Silversmiths use fine viscid ductile ash from volcanic eruptions in their moulds. Most of the silver shops have much the same stock, they seldom deviate from the sure sellers. At Tom's Silver (everybody knows where it's at), they bargain only if you buy wholesale. Pay anything from Rp600 for a filigree silver ring up to Rpl,300,000 for a complete silver dinner service for 12. If you make enough purchases they might even lay a 'Tom's Silver' T-shirt on you. SH800, JI. Kartanegara 65, is a bit cheaper than Tom's Silver. Kresna Arts, just past the seko/ah desa, specializes in tortoise shell.