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KRATON HADININGRAT

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Kraton Hadinigrat (Susuhanan's Palace): In the city center. Susuhanan means 'royal foot placed on the head of vassals paying homage', a title dating from the conquering King Agung of Mataram who reigned in the 1600's. This kraton is less overun with tourists than the one in Yogya and many people enjoy it more. Open 9-12. Rp300 entrance, Rp200 for students. Usten to the gamelan on Sun., Wed., Thurs., and Sat., beginning at 12 pm, for 3 hours. Cameras are forbidden inside and you must walk barefoot. There's a cool inner courtyard of shady trees and singing birds, antechambers, royal halls, leafy pathways. Pendopo Pegelaran has shining marble tiles, crystal chandeliers, wrought iron pillars, stained glass screens.

A phallic-shaped tower is the sultan's trysting place with the Goddess of the South Seas. Pay for the guide at the ticket office, Rp100, a wellconducted tour. Museum Radyapustaka has a lavish collection of regal pomp, a model of a dalang and his puppets, an odd international assortment of statues, quite valuable collections of old HinduJavanese bronzes, ancient Chinese porcelain, a diorama of Prince Diponegoro fighting the Dutch, and superb 18th Century European Cinderella royal coaches with plush interiors. See large demonic gargoyle figureheads which once graced the splendid royal barges that used to journey up and down the Solo River from Solo to Gresik in the 18th Century. Also bull-fighting muzzles with spikes attached. Full of surprises. Take your time. In the pendopo in front of the kraton, there's a female canon with a curtain around it. She goes by the name of Meriam Setom. Her husband, Setomo, is in front of Jakarta's City Museum.