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Kraton
Mankunegaran: Built in 1787. Not actually a kraton but a Javanese
home on an extra large and splendid scale, the palace of the junior
line of the royal family. This is a smaller court with its own
set of aristocracy, artisans and dancing masters, even its own
game/an factory. It has equally extravagant architecture and furnishings
as the Susuhanan's palace, but just a scaled-down version. Open
for tourists only since 1968. Rp300 entrance, Rp150 for students.
Taking photos in the-Dalem, the palace proper and the King's residence,
is not allowed. The giant pendopo (or puro) with is zany painted
ceiling of zodiac signs, is one of the finest examples of stately
Javanese wood architecture. All the buildings were made from teakwood;
no nails were used.
The
floor was laid with Italian marble in 1925, and there are European
chandeliers. On Wed. mornings the pusaka game/an is played, and
dance rehearsals begin at 10 am on the main pendopo. This gamelan
orchestra is one of the finest on Java and it's older than the
palace itself; its name means 'Drifting in Smiles' Swallows dip
and dive as the game/an plays. There's also a library of old Dutch
books. In this palace you are allowed to go right inside the royal
residence where glass cabinets hold relics from the Java-Hindu
era, displays of 14th Century jewelry, dance costumes, a solid
gold chastity belt, silver sate skewers, lovely Bedaya and Serimpi
body ornaments, old portraits of haughty sultans, bridal beds,
and a matchless collection of masks from different regions of
Java and Madura. Perhaps you'll see the queen answer her telephone,
or smile at you through her garden window (this means luck).
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