wayang crafts: A craftsman, Subandono, still makes the almost extinct form of the scroll-like wayang beber at JI. Sawo 8 no. 162, Perumnas, Palur. He wants Rp8000 for a 2 m scroll painted on cloth; 12 scrolls make up the complete Panji tales. The most ancient wayang form, the dalang unrolls long illustrated scrolls while reciting the tales, the audience laughing and crying according to the poigency of the scenes. For theatrical supplies and dancers' costumes try Toko Serimpi on corner of JI. Hayamwuruk and JI. Ronggowarsito: wayang wong masks, gold gilt headdresses, kris, painted armbands, monkey topeng masks.

Visit R.L. Dutosudamo (ask for Duta Pradonggo), the official Haningrat Kraton game/an instrument maker, a hereditary profession. His workshop is on JI. Gambuhan 30, a little lane in Kampung Baluwarti, within the walls of the kraton. Five kencong lone complete set) costs Rp175,000. Rebab (two-stringed zither) for Rp16,000. Big gongs, Rp75,000 with a Rp60,000 dragon-stand. Iron gongs, Rp400,000 for a whole set, but iron doesn't sound nearly as resonant as the brass gong. Kendang, Rp12,000. Gender, Rp45,000. Browse around the work yard and play the instruments or have them demonstrated for you.