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Approached
in ancient timesfrom the plains by a long flight of steps. To
Sukuh, 910 m above sea level, it's about a 7 km very steep walk,
or take andong, op/et or horse. Rp50 entrance. The shape of Candi
Sukuh with its flight of steps leading to the upper part of the
temple looks like the Maya temples of Guatemala. Walk up three
grassy pyramids until you come to the main structure, a large
flat unadorned powerfully carved stepped pyramid of rough hewn
stone. Sukuh's narrow stairway leads into a dark inner chamber.
There are many phallic symbols; Sukuh is said to be the only explicitly
erotic temple in all of Java. On a stone floor at the top of the
steep stone tunnel a large realistic penis faces a lovingly sculpted,
swollen in excitement vagina carved in relief. The first representation
of a kris in Indonesian art is shown in one panel; Bima forging
one with his bare hands while using his knee as an anvil.
These
strongly carved figures are so intriguing because they are done
in the 'wayang-puppet style'. There is a statue of Bima, plus
carvings of crabs, lizards, tortoises, bats, panakawan clowns,
nasty underworld creatures, decorated tortoise statues, and guardians
holding their clubs in one hand and their penis in the other.
Pylons and obelisks nearby are decorated with the story of Garuda.
Sleep in the hut near the temple grounds. There's also a kampung
nearby with excellent goats' milk. On Sukuh's mountain the last
king of Majapahit, Brawyaya, is said to be buried; offerings are
placed on this site by the Sultan of Yogya each year. Candi Ceta:
A 15 km walk from Candi Sukuh. You pass through a small village,
then it's 6 km beyond. At 1500 m altitude, it's 600 m higher than
Sukuh, but not as fascinating.Ceta is in poorer condition, not
having the statues and monuments that Sukuh has, just guardian
figures and /inggas.
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