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HERMITS CAVE


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Hermits' Caves: Cave hermitages, which ancient Javanese rulers and mystics used as recluses, are a curious feature of East Javanese archaeology, not found in the rest of Java or in Sumatra. At Selamangleng, 10 km S.W. of Kediri, there are rare examples of basreliefs carved on the walls of a cave. Dates from the 10th Century. Four rooms show mountains, mysterious clouds, and burial scenes. See here the first version of the Mahabharata epic. There's another hermit's cave 10 km S.E. of Tulungagung; both are called 'Selamangleng'. Catch a Colt from Tamanan on JI. Diponegoro in Tulungagung for Rp100 to Sanggrahan village. Ask at the police post or at the camat's how you get to Gua Selamangleng. This cave lies at the foot of the Wajak Mountains; use the great pinnacle of rock as a landmark.

A gang of kids will show you the way through ricefields and across a small river. (Also visit Candi Cungkup while in the area). The Story of Arjuna is carved on the wall of this hermit's cave. Voluptuous heavenly nymphs descend on clouds from heaven to earth to seduce him while he's meditating. A deer and a monkey are hidden in the lush vegetation and one of the nymphs is urinating in a stream. Steps lead up to it and you see an enormous ka/a-head over the cave's mouth. Gua Pasir, 4 km further, also has scenes of Arjuna being tempted (but not as good). Shows the love life of the comic and deformed dwarves, the panakawans. note: The area around Boyolangu is a black and white magic center (called goona2 in Indonesian, tenung or santet in Javanese). In Balairejo call in on the most renowned magician of them all, Gipowikromo.

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