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1 km out of Ubud. Walk down the road between huge green embankments with fireflies and dripping water, then over a swaying antique iron bridge. Former residences of Walter Spies and Rudolph Bonnet, both of whom gave canvas, paints and many suggestions to Balinese artists during the 30's. Colorful dancing dragonflies hover everywhere. stay: Take a stroll through the Campuan Inn, the former home of Walter Spies; US$20 per day for full room and board. Costs Rp3000 for an unreal Indonesian lunch or dinner.They'll pack you a lunch for the day if you're traveling around the island. One half km uphill from the main road is W. Munut's Homestay, Rp500 or Rp1000 double, Rp1500 full board. Nice garden setting on a hill next to rice paddies. Has electricity. San Michelle package tourists stay here. See Tony and Kody if you need info or a guide. Pa Adur's place is high on a hill overlooking the road, breezy with a view of the volcanoes, Rp500 single, Rp1000 double. For breakfast he serves papaya, eggs, bananas, toast and butter, coffee or tea, Rp300. Homestay Sadri, also up on a hillock off the roadway, has big pavilion-type Balinese style houses; Rp1000 per person or cheaper rooms for Rp500. Tea or coffee in the mornings. Komplet breakfast (eggs, bread, fruit salad), Rp500. High up in the ricefields, the panorama is great with Gunung Agung looming up in the distance. Really quiet, couldn't be better. eat: Murni's Warung, just before the bridge on the left walking from Ubud to Campuan, is No. 1: yoghurt, chili con came, sweet and sour pork, great french fries, ice cold beer, and very jegeag (pretty) waitresses.