Bukit Peninsula: A dry rough land connected to the mainland by an isthmus. This tableland had once been at the bottom of the sea but is now 100 m above sea level, its sides rising straight up. Arid stunted bushland with cactus; very windy. Miles of open beach and volcanic caves. On some clifftops there are remains of foundations of ancient sea temples. Although hilly, it's possible to ride a pushbike around the peninsula. Ulu Watu: The road leads right by it. An unbelievable temple on a cliff overhanging the Indian Ocean 90 m below. Legend says that this temple is a ship turned to stone. Best time is at sunset. Watch sea turtles swim below in a hundred shades of churning sea water. The surf under Ulu Watu sometimes reaches 8 m in height, purported to be one of the best lefthanders in the world and the most challenging surf on the island. Live in caves? Go 1 km past Ulu Watu and ask farm boys, 'Dimana gua?' and they'll show you where they are. Isolated and lovely beaches are 45 minutes descent down cliffs; run naked in the sun. Though totally out of the stream, to live here presents a logistics problem: no water.