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PREPARATIONS

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Apply for a permit (Rp500) at the Wildlife Conservation Office in the opposite end of town from the market in Labuhanbajo, a village in far western Flores. It's more convenient to obtain this permit in Singaraja, North Bali, before you arrive. In Labuhanbajo the permit takes 3 days to get since 9 copies have to be made. Don't accuse them of corruption otherwise they'll raise the fee to Rp5000 and won't give you a receipt. For baiting the lizards, buy a goat in Labuhanbajo for Rp2-3000 (the losmen should arrange it) and have it slaughtered before you go so that the carcass will be sufficiently rotted by the time you get to Komodo Island; Rp600 worth of stinky old fish will also suffice to capture their olfactory attention. You must also take along a guide from Labuhanbajo, Rp1000 a day. Bring some rice and vegetables because food is neither plentiful nor varied on the island. Take a telephoto lens.