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Lombok
has a fairly large population (1.5 million), a mixture of Islamic
Sasak and Hindu Balinese. The Balinese conqured Lombok and enslaved
its native peoples, the Sasaks, in the 18th Century. The Sasaks
are a hill tribe of a different racial stock with dark skin, long
heads, wavy hair and more caucasian facial features. This was
a result of migration streams at an earlier date than most Indonesian
ethnic groups, the Sasaks coming overland from N.W. India or Burma.
Today the Balinese make up 5% of the population and live mainly
in the west. To the east are the Sasaks, heavily Islamicized and
poorer. Most of the Chinese in the east were killed off in 1965-66.
Though Muslim, Sasak boys are carried in a circumcision ceremony
borrowed from Hindu Bali to the west. The boy rides on a lion
with a tail of palm fronds. No anesthetic is used; each boy must
be willing to suffer pain for Allah. There's much pageantry in
Sasak courting rituals. If a girl accepts a gift from an admirer,
she must marry him. The native Sasak dances include: Cupak, Cepung,
Tawa-Tawa, Gendang Belek, Rudat, Kroncang Sampi. You can charter
a dance troupe for Rp15,000 a show. Gorgeous cloths and ceremonial
fabrics are woven on this island. The men wear a batik kain with
an attached ikat (sapuk) border. The women of Lombok, who aren't
allowed to wear gold ornaments, don the black baju iambung with
a black kain and a red shawl Ibeberutl.
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