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The lowland capital in West Sumbawa. See the old, collapsing, barn-like former sultan's palace with its rusty cannon. A wrinkled 100 year old woman with snow white hair, Sultan Jalaluddin III's widow, 4th and only surviving wife, still lives in this palace (built in 1931). Inside are creaking carved doors, carpets full of dust, a huge wall with a row of nupital couches on either side; frayed red and white tapestries hang sadly on the wall, rows of spider webs clutch the ceilings. Now village children take care of her, coming each day with food and water. They clean her room, wash her sarungs, and generally help her live in her memories. stay and eat: Many good losmens. Losmen Saudara, Rp600, is clean, central, and the management is quite pleasant. The losmen located on the other side of the road is just as good. If Losmen Saudara is full, try Losmen Bahagia at the end of town, Rp400 single. Eat in the warungs in front of the sultan's palace. Alright food is served at Rumah Makan Anda or Rumah Makan Gembira. vicinity of Sumbawa Besar: At Taliwang, Rp500 by bus from Sumbawa Besar, go 10 km past to Labuhan Haci, a natural harbor surrounded by beautiful scenery. A fantastic /osmen here.