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50
km east of Mataram up in the mountains, about 4 km north of Kotaraja.
From Cakranegara they drop you off on the turn-off to Kotaraja.
Just wait for a bemo (quicker and cheaper than a dokar) to take
you to Kotaraja. Then from Kotaraja it's Rp50-200 per person by
dokar further on a rocky road straight up to Tetebatu. Or about
a 2 hour nice easy walk going through some beautiful countryside.
Exquisite ricefields. See Sumbawa. stay: Wisma Soejono in Tetebatu
is an old colonial-style house run by a very civilized lawyer;
Rp500 single or Rp750 double, with brass beds! Ice cold pools
for swimming. They fix excellent homecooked suppers (Dutch, Indo,
or Javanese) for Rp2300, laid out on the table in feudal splendor.
They'll also give you food to take up the mountain with you. from
Tetebatu: You can't actually reach the summit of Mt. Rinjani from
here (there's no track) but take a walk up the thick screaming
jungle full of black monkeys swinging from trees. Meet the mountain
people on the way up, cutting heavy mahogony in the forest. They
are really freaked out about meeting Europeans. Really spectacular
forest views.
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