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Bus
travel: Beware of pickpockets who are thick on the buses of Sumatra.
Indonesians' sense of garishness is reflected in their multi-colored
Chevrolet 'chicken-catcher' private buses which are often painted
bright colors to make them distinctive. They often have names
such as Guntur (thunderbolt) and Ki/at (lightening), thus Bis
Malam Kilat is Lightening Night Bus. If you take local buses they
pick up all the locals even if the bus is already full. If you
take the Mercedes buses, they don't pick up many extra passengers
and they have better suspension (also cost Rpl-500 more). You
can cross Sumatra lengthwise in the dry season in 5 or 6 days
if you meet all your connections. If you don't want to rupture
you spleen, however, 2 weeks should be allowed. In the wet season
it might take you a solid month. There could be many lengthly
delays during the rainy season when river levels at ferry crossings
are swollen too high for the vehicle to board the unweildy rope-bound
wooden rafts which are used as ferries, hauled across the river
along a steel hawser slung between the two banks. If bridges are
out in South Sumatra you can often catch the next barge downriver,
a memorable journey, to a town where you can wait more comfortably
for another bus. Swim in the rivers while waiting (up to 3 days)
for your bus to cross. Try A.N.S. bus company, about the most
reliable, but their seats are built for bigger asses. Next best
is A.L.S. For less wear and tear on your big ass, it's imperative
that you get a seat in front of the back axle of the bus. Also
your luggage is safe from theft up front where the whole bus can
keep an eye on it. Sometimes a rope is strung out in front of
you to lean on for relief or to sleep on, if you can. On a Sumatran
bus you'll have a guaranteed breakdown at least once, a comic
repair show, and endless Indonesian music played right over your
head at full distorted volume. You're bogged in mud, driven over
logstrewn cow paddocks, your head crashed against the ceiling
(if you're over 5 ft. tall), your ass resting on spikes. Like
being inside a cement mixer, you spend more time airborne than
on the seat. Bus sickness is rampant and companies thoughtfully
dispense plastic bags. A stoker usually rides with the driver
to do running repairs, errands, and to collect fares. The driver
eats 5 times a day at Padang-style restaurants along the way and
there are untold stops for drinks. On some North Sumatran runs,
the drivers even race each other with passengers as unwilling
spectators. If you're coming up from the south by bus, break the
ride up and take 1-2 day rests. This way you can appreciate South
Sumatra and enjoy your trip more and not have it associated only
with pain. The first leg would be Tanjungkarang to Palembang,
then from Palembang to Padang, then from Padang to Lake Toba or
Medan. Book immediately on your bus out as soon as you get in
a town. Always ask the local people or other travelers what the
true fare is before buying your ticket. On long bus journeys you
could pay as much as Rp1000 over the usual fare.
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