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Bagansiapiapi (Place of Frel: On the north coast next to the mouth of the Rokan River, surrounded by swamps and jungles. This town used to be accessible by coastal steamers, but now mangrove-covered mudflats separate it from the Rokan River so goods and passengers are transported by dugout. One of the richest fishing grounds in the world (only Bergen, Norway, catches more fish), this little town pulls in over 100,000 tons of fish a year. Also one of the hottest spots on Sumatra. The Hokkien Chinese of Bagansiapiapi only began mingling with Indonesians over the last decades of the 19th Century and they speak an unadulterated Hokkien. Also a major smuggling center; after dark, fast unlighted sampans are driven by powerful outboard motors at high speeds by captains who know their way through the reefs so well that it's difficult for Indonesian naval patrols to stop them. But it's a sign of the centralist Jakartan government's growing power that they are slowly but steadily putting a stop to smuggling throughout the islands..

 

  



 

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