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The food in this town is worth all those hardearned coins, a munchie's dream. If you're a vegetarian the restaurants can make martabak without meat. There are sayak (fruits, vegetables and tangy sauce) and apam carts all over town. Be warned that the 'tomato juice' found in Bukittinggi equals a sweet pink milk shake that tastes like baby's vomit. Rumah Makan Simpang Rays near the new market is briskly patronized by Indonesians for its nasi padang. Try their fried eels, Rp100 a bundle, and probably the best soto daging in Indonesia. Rods Restaurant nearby caters more to the western palate. French toast Rp125 and fruit salad with honey and molasses; also fruit juices Rp75 plus the usual mie goreng and nasi padang,o sit by the window and look out on the market life. If you go down 3 warungs on the left past Roda's towards the stairway down to the bus station, get better, cheaper and thicker water buffalo yoghurt. Flop your jaws on real oats topped with yoghurt, avocado, cane syrup, and grated coconut, Rp100; afterwards it feels like you've swallowed a boulder. The Mini Corner near the Jaya is the place for Indonesian oxtail soup (sup buntut), Rp125. The Fu Yung Hai and other (expensive) dishes at the Monalisa Chinese restaurant down the street from the Jaya are superb. The food at Didi's Asia Restaurant is outrageously and blandly westernized; there's just something you can't trust about a warung that plays western cassettes. But with its atmosphere it makes the ideal traveler's hangout, drinking and meeting place at night. Rock music blasts out front of the Jaya, JI. A. Yani, and the food is consistently good. Enormous ristaffels are set before you but you pay only for what you eat. Fish curry and rendang is what the Jaya is known for. Also good vegetable soup, Rp75 (but their Singapore fried rice has no taste at all), try as well the as pokat. Read the travelers' comments in the visitor's books, lots of sage, and hilarious advice. Meet friendly Uncle Didi if he's in town, he has a good repertoire of card tricks. Ask to see his photo album.
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