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If
you're paying more than US65t to US$3 a day for a room, you're
being culturally deprived of firsthand experience with the Indonesian
people, the rakyat, the masses. You can live in neo-colonialist
splendor relatively cheaply in Indonesia, but the more you're
spending the more distance is created and the less of an Indonesian
experience your visit will be. How good a time you have in a place
depends frequently upon the friendliness and location of the losmen
you stayed in, so choose your /osmens carefully. It makes quite
a difference in expenses if two people travel together and split
rooms. A double room could cost Rp750 while a single room costs
Rp600; or in many places you pay a flat rate for the room no matter
how many people occupy it. Ask at bus or train stations immediately
upon arrival in the towns for cheap places to stay. Becak and
taxi drivers always know of some. in the smaller villages ask
the hansip (district civilian militia) for sleeping quarters.
The same person whotells you that a hotel or losmen in this book
no longer exists, will also be able to tell you where another
cheap one is. Most of the typical low-cost Indonesian style staying
places have short beds and low doorways for westerners. If there
are prostitutes around it will probably prove noisy at night.
Indonesian hotels are good about waking you up early to catch
a train, bus or plane. Here are some types of Indonesian-style
accommodations, their functions and prices varying from region
to region:
a)
stay with people, everywhere: Muslims take care of strangers,
it's part of the Islamic code. Someone is almost always in the
mood to take you home to their family. If you stay with a family
in a kampung in the village or city, it's polite to drop in on
the kepala kampung or the kepala desa (headmen) to introduce yourself
and to register (pay sometimes a charge of Rpl-2001. His house
is usually the largest one in the village with a big verandah
for holding meetings. If the village is very small and you have
no other place to stay, the kepala will fix you up for free or
for a nominal charge. Often you're obliged to stay with the kepala
desa and not in a less-ranking household. If you're hard up, crash
on village platforms or in fields at the side of the road (but
never in Sumatra).
b)
the police: If places are too expensive or there are none, go
to the police explaining that you're a poor student. Some hotels
might refuse to put you up even though they have empty rooms because
there are too many police forms for them to fill out and too many
hassels and even suspicions if they do; plus they must pay the
police too much of a cut for putting up tourists. In these cases,
since they're causing all the inconveniences, go to the police
and request accommodation. In exchange for entertainment and English-speaking
practice, sleep for free on their floor or pitch your tent in
their yard.
c) penginapan (lodging house): Very basic facilities. Even more
basic than the losmen, but often even cheaper. See them all over
Indonesia in little back lanes, sometimes with just a sign 'PengX'
with the owner's name.
d)
losmen: A cheaply run hotel but still quite livable. Often concentrated
around train and bus stations. A bathroom is usually shared. Room
service depends on the losmen or on the ibu (your hostess). Here's
where you find the most interesting people-wandering merhants,
students, Indonesian travelers, other travelers. Losmens run anywhere
from Rp150-750, but prices differ from Sumatra right on through
to Irian Jaya (the most expensive). On Bali, where you even see
signs 'Hotel Ex-Losmen', it means living with a family. In Jakarta
and other places on Java, a losmen could mean a brothel andt heyare
considered somewhat downgrading.
e) wisma (sometimes called pondok): A bit more expensive still.
This is an indonesian lodge or small guesthouse. Pretensions of
grandeur in the high sounding name. Usually it's one storey, efficiently
run, privately owned or owned by a family. The wisma-class hotel
is actually the best accommodation for the money in Indonesia.
Running usually about Rp1000-2500, they are remarkably comfortable
and homey. Wismas often have flush toilets and a simple breakfast
is often included in the price of the room. The name wisma is
also used for ordinary buildings or for office blocks; could be
anything.
f)
hotel: Although it could also be quite cheap and dirty, a hotel
infers more expensive accommodation with the European connotation.
Room service depends on the price. Every room should lock (except
in Yogya). The owner sometimes does the cooking, errands, managing
and bookkeeping himself. In very cheap hotels, meals are not included
in the price. Some hotels are just losmens with another name;
the others you'll re cognize easily and avoid. There are mercifully
few of the 'international standard' hotels in Indonesian, perhaps
25 in the whole archipelago.
g)
YMCA's and Youth Hostels: Though quite comfortable because they
have to live up to a standard, these are frequently more expensive
than cheaper hotels and losmens. YMCA's run Rp10002500, but are
quite centrally located, clean, usually have dining rooms, and
are run much like an inn. Youth Hostels, of the few that exist,
are small, plain, regimented.
h)
asram: Students live here in dormitory accommodation or share
a room. Often you can find spare beds, especially during school
holidays.
i)
pasangrahan or rumah2 kehutanan: Their functions are nearly interchangeable.
They are government forestry huts or government lodges in parks,
nature or wildlife reserves. You can stay in them if not occupied
by government people. Usually they are quite cheap, sometimes
even free. Found mostly in the outer islands-Moluccas, Celebes,
Kalimantan, Sumatra. There could be several of them in one locale,
therefore by asking for a rumah2 kehutanan you may be directed
to a different one than the one you're looking for. Pasangrahan
could also mean a commercial lodging house, frequently in more
out-of-the-way places.
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