The sate man comes with his kitchen on his shoulders. Listen for the sound of his feet rhythmically hitting the mud. He squats in the gutter and fans the embers of his charcoal fire, turning out sizzling skewered beef, pork, chicken, turtle meat or mutton with different sauces, the style varies from place to place. Krupuk, the Indonesian pretzel, is a big crispy misshapen cracker made from either shrimp paste, fish or fruit mixed with rice and dough. After being dried to look like thin hard colored plastic, it unfolds, blossoms, when fried in oil. Served cold, it's very tangy. The krupuk man carries on a bamboo pole two huge containers which look like big milk cans. Since bread is seldom. eaten, being too expensive and not to their taste, Indonesians use krupuk for bread.