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Held in awe by common Javanese and politicians for their mystic and clairavoyant powers; they predicted both World Wars. Suharto safely ignores them. This small tribe of Sunda-speaking people live in a 50 sq. km forest territory on G. Kendeng, S.E. of Rangkasbitung. For 400 years they have maintained complete isolation from the outside world, preserving intact their religion, moral code, kinship, hierarchial system and general way of life. Now their isolation is breaking down with the increasing population of the plains to the north of Kendeng encroaching more and more on traditional Badui lands. Their villages are divided into Badui Dalam (inner 3 villages) and the Badui Luar (outer 22 villages). The Inner Badui, or White Badui, consist of 40 families IKajeroanl, the purest of Badui stock. This inner clan dresses only in white and follows rigorous rules of conduct which were first laid down by an ancestral divinity called Batarratunggal. They are forbidden to kill, steal, lie, commit adultery, get drunk, eat food at night, take any form of conveyance, wear flowers or perfumes, accept gold or silver, touch money, cut their hair. Other taboos relate to defending Badui lands against invasion: they may not grow sawah, use fertilizers, raise cash crops, use modern tools for working ladang soil, keep large domestic animals. The Badui Da/am live in the villages of Cibeo, Cikaratawarna, and Cikeusik in tanah larangan (forbidden territory) where no stranger is permitted to spend the night. Outside this 'sacred inner circle' are the Outer Badui (Kaluaran). This outer clan wears bluish black turbans and sashes, lives less strictly, bargains on behalf of the Badui Dalam, are permitted to sell their crops, and serve as go-betweens for the White Badui and the rest of the world. These men oversee not only the entry of strangers into the Badui lands but also the exit of Badui people. In the past no one was allowed to leave their jungle fastness, but now you sometimes see Badui men in the streets of Jakarta or even as far away as Bandung. But two things are certain: they have a good reason for going there and they have come on foot. The Baduis consider records of their progeny as sacred living things. There's a grove of hallowed family trees at Arcas Domas. history: Their origins are uncertain. Dr. B. van Tricht's expedition in 1928 to gather medical and anthropological data on the Badui was a complete failure. They could be descendants of the aristocracy of the Sunda Kingdom of Pajajaran who lived near Batutulis in the hills around Bogor; their domestic architecture follows most closely traditional Sundanese architecture. Pakuwan, the capital of Pajajaran, was destroyed by invading Muslims in 1579. To preserve their basic animism (with Buddhist and Hindu overtones), their ancestors could have fled to this mountain retreat. Another theory traces their origin to northern Banten; pockets of people in the northern hills still speak the archaic dialect of Sunda that the Badui use. getting there: The rigid buyut taboo system makes it difficult for tourists to visit the inner territory, but you can get to the outer villages of Kedu ketug, Kadujangkung and Karakal. You could catch a glimpse of an Inner Badui man visiting an Outer Badui village for the day, the flash of his white garments moving between the houses. Get permission first from the Kantor Kabupaten in Rangkasbitung to visit the Inner Badui village of Cibeo on a walk-in, walk-out basis; speak with the pu'un (leader) in Cibeo. Best is to find a Badui guide in Rangkasbitung who is going back home on foot to Cibeo. The jungle track leads from Rangkas up to the hills to the Muslim villages of Cisimeut and Kemancing. Cross the 100 m wide river at Cisimeut. Spend the night at Kemancing and start next morning at dawn. From Kemancing it takes 3'k hours to reach the Outer Badui village of Keduketug, which is strikingly different physically as well as in atmosphere from the Muslim villages. From Keduketug, it's a 2 hour hard climb to Cibeo, the very heartland of the Badui. |
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