This completely untamed wilderness lies on the far western tip of Java, cut off from the rest of the island by a narrow marshy isthmus. There are two separate parks, one located on the peninsula and the other on the small island of Panaitan across a narrow strait. The reserve has open broad meadows, waterfalls, ready swamps, estuarine shallows with crocodiles, steam rising from alang2 grass, flocks of peacocks, rooting wild pigs: hornbills flapping through the air, gibbons leaping from trees, squeaking otters in the rivers, miniature deer, sambur stags with huge sets of antlers. There are also wild buffaloes, tigers, panthers, herons, wild ducks and numerous other varieties of birds. Skindiving near the island of Peucang. Sandy beach at Nyiur where the rare one-horned Javanese rhinoceros sometimes hangs out (also on the peninsula part). Now 45 protected rhinos are left. Similar to its Indian relative which is found now only in very small pockets in Assam and Nepal, the armor on its back is divided into four sections. His little pig eyes don't see well, but he'll attack blind anyway. Look out for fresh 3-toed hoof marks, making sure that a tree is always nearby. getting there: Best time to visit is April-Oct. for in this dry season the rhinos make their way to clay pits to sun themselves. Get an entry permit first from the Forestry Office, JI. Juanda, Bogor - it's rumored that it's a hassel. Travel agents can fix it up for you, but more expensive. A 4-day tour to Ujung Kulon costs Rp40,000 and up, including accommodation in a guesthouse on Peucang island, a photo safari with guide, entrance fee, all meals, two nights at the Carita Beach in Carita. Contact Mangiring Tours, JI. Tueku Cik Ditiro 45, Jakarta; Tel. 50128. Tours are often advertised in the Indonesia Times. By road from Serang there are 3 ways to get to Labuhan from where you can take boats out to the volcanic isle of Krakatoa and to Ujung Kulon: the northern route (70 km) via Cilegon, the intersection for Merak, and Anyer is the quickest; the central route (80 km) passes through Mandalawangi; and the southern route (65 km) goes through the mountain village of Pandeglang. The motorboat from Labuhan to Ujung Kulon takes 12 hours; or take a prahu, much cheaper.